Recently, the international luxury brand Prada has been caught in a storm of “cultural appropriation” and “plagiarism” after a newly released sandal style was accused of being extremely similar to the traditional Indian Kolhapuri sandal. The incident has not only triggered extensive debate in the global fashion community but also provoked strong reactions on Indian social media platforms.
The cause of the incident: sandal designs that are “too similar” to each other
For its Summer 2025 collection, Prada introduced a “retro strappy sandal” priced at around $850. However, as soon as the shoes were revealed on social media, many Indian netizens pointed out that they were almost identical to the traditional Kolhapuri sandals from Maharashtra, a centuries-old Indian handicraft known for its unique braided strap construction, openings, and durability.
Fashion commentator Samir Chopra posted on Platform X (formerly Twitter), “This ‘new one’ from Prada is the same Kolhapuri that my grandfather used to wear in the summer, only the price tag has gone into five figures.”
Meanwhile, hashtags such as #KolhapuriNotPrada quickly hit Indian social media, with many Indian artisans and independent designers stating that “the culture has been stolen without even a word about the name.”
What are Kolhapuri sandals?
Native to the Kolhapur region of western India, Kolhapuri sandals are traditionally made by craftspeople using cow or goat skins, and the entire process is done by hand without the use of any metal fittings or chemical glues. Often characterized by natural dyeing, perforated patterns, and intricately braided straps, they are not only practical and durable but also carry a strong cultural significance and local identity.
Dating back to the 13th century, Kolhapuri sandals were once widely used by royalty and commoners alike for their comfort and durability. Even in modern times, Kolhapuri is still a daily choice for many in India and is one of the essential attire for many weddings and religious events.
The Indian government even applied for and received a Geographical Indication (GI) label for Kolhapuri sandals in 2019, in an attempt to protect their cultural uniqueness and economic value.
Prada responds, saying it’s “inspired by traditional global craftsmanship.”
In the face of a wave of criticism on social media, Prada said in a brief statement, “We have always respected the traditional craftsmanship of different cultures around the globe, and the design of this sandal is inspired by handmade leather techniques from around the world. We are evaluating public feedback and appreciate the interest in handmade culture.”
This response failed to quell the controversy. Many Indian designers and cultural scholars have pointed out that the real problem lies in the lack of recognition or mention of the Kolhapuri name, as well as the lack of collaboration or empowerment of the community of origin, thus constituting cultural exploitation.
Cultural appropriation or cultural integration?
The Prada case has once again brought Cultural Appropriation into the spotlight. In the context of globalization, fashion brands often draw inspiration from all over the world, but where are the boundaries?
Cultural scholar Alana Mehta points out, “Cultural integration should be a beautiful expression of pluralistic exchange, but when resources and profits are unequal, and the original culture is not respected or compensated, it becomes cultural appropriation.”
This is not the first time Prada has been challenged over cultural controversies. As early as 2020, the brand publicly apologized for model makeup that involved “racial stereotypes,” and international brands such as Gucci, Dior, and Victoria’s Secret have also caused controversy over similar incidents.
Artisans appeal: give us the respect and platform we deserve
The artisans of Kolhapuri sandals’ origin have become the most direct stakeholders in this controversy. According to India’s Business Standard, thousands of families in Kolhapur still make traditional sandals for a living, often earning less than $200 a month.
In an interview with the BBC, Ajay Jadhav, head of the Kolhapuri Collective, a crafts organization, said, “If Prada is willing to work with us to promote Kolhapuri to the world, we welcome it. But now it is just making money out of our culture without giving us a penny.”
He adds, “The design is not the problem, the problem is ignoring the living community behind this.”
Deeper issues: intellectual property and cultural belonging
Although Kolhapuri sandals are certified as Geographical Indications (GIs), they still face the dilemma of “design plagiarism” or “unauthorized copying” in the international market. Existing intellectual property laws do not adequately protect traditional craftsmanship, making it easy for large brands to “borrow” traditional elements for highly profitable business operations without legal consequences.
There are calls for a more binding international mechanism to ensure that craft communities receive a fair share of global trade, for example through mandatory labeling of origin, licensing fees, and co-branding.
As early as the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) proposed that local traditional knowledge systems should be respected and promoted globally, but many challenges remain at the implementation level.
Conclusion: Respect is not a constraint, it is a win-win situation.
The “shoe collision” storm between Prada and Kolhapuri sandals reminds us once again that in the era of highly intertwined global cultures, it is the responsibility of every creator and brand to respect the original culture and maintain fair exchanges.
Perhaps, high luxury and tradition are not contradictory, but if we forget the source, fashion will remain an empty shell.
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